Trend Report: Fall/Winter 2008

Key Color: Gray

December 21, 2008 – Fall/Winter’s extended forecast calls for shades of gray. Designers presented diverse collections proving that this color has much more range than we thought. The mood was tailored and polished across ready-to-wear from formal suiting to eveningwear, as an alternative to banal black.

Key colors include vapor, silver, gray mix, sky scraper, and iron. Key color schemes include monochromatic and analogous, while plain textiles were accented by jacquards. While most directional for the commercial market, watch for its growing importance in menswear.

Photos: Dolce & Gabbana; Calvin Klein

Lakshmi Menon: Model Moment

December 12, 2008 – Earlier this year, while traveling throughout India, I discovered newcomer Lakshmi Menon, the 26-year-old Bangalore-born beauty, whose looks have captured the industry’s attention.

And what good timing. 2008 was the year that surfaced an issue long surrounding the industry: Is fashion racist? The lack of visible minorities on the runway sparked countless related articles and Italian Vogue’s notorious July 2008 issue, a.k.a. the “black issue,” devoted entirely to black models. If black models, as was pointed out, are drowning in the sea of Eastern Europeans dominating the industry, where does that leave other minority models?

Enter Lakshmi Menon, whose debut in her native India has quickly catapulted into an international career. Over the past year, the five-foot-eleven model has become the sole face of Hermès (replacing Canadian Daria Werbowy); has walked the runway for Ralph Lauren, D&G and Stella McCartney to name a few and; has booked campaigns with Givenchy and H&M.

But her greatest success has been providing a face for minorities who are grossly unrepresented in the industry. Her looks breathe life and excitement into fashion and I hope to see more of her -- and other global beauties -- in the future.

Lakshmi is represented by Ford Models in New York.

Photo Above: Feature, US Vogue December 2008
Photo Below: Ad Campaign, Givenchy Fall/Winter 2008

Models Own Clothes

December 7, 2008 – Ever wondered what models show up to work in? At the Chanel Cruise 2008 show I couldn’t help but notice these standout looks backstage. Top Left: Allegra’s necklace is actually an antique compass she picked up in London and says she wears it with everything. Top Right: Kelly Kopen wears a vintage Borsalino fedora she found in Italy. Bottom: Kara and Maja.

Chanel Cruise 2008: Accessories

December 3, 2008 – Taking a closer look at the luxury market, one quickly realizes the role shoes and accessories play - often accounting for a greater percentage of net sales than the collection itself. Surprised? It does make good economic sense to invest in a pair of pumps than a jacket that will go out of style before you had the opportunity to wear it.

That being said, I fell in love with this sirène blue quilted purse (as modeled by Shelby Coleman) - arguably my favorite piece in the collection - while working at the Chanel Cruise 2008 show. This piece can look equally good lounging by the pool as it can during the holidays because of its frosty finish… A beautiful transition piece from resort to winter.

Chanel Cruise 2008

December 1, 2008 – The Chanel Cruise 2008 collection was presented in Toronto on November 27, 2008 benefiting The Hospital for Sick Children. The evening was hosted by Fashion Television’s Jeanne Becker and featured a performance by the Four Tenors. Up for auction was an exclusive black alligator skin Chanel bag that retailed around $40,000 CDN.

Heritage Court at the CNE Grounds was transformed to replicate the collection’s debut in Miami at the Raleigh Hotel. The show flew in models from New York and Paris, and featured top models like Taryn Davidson, Shelby Coleman and Allegra Carpenter.





Models walked along a curvilinear runway built over a pool of water, setting the tone for this fluid collection. For the Chanel Cruise 2008 show, Karl Lagerfeld’s signature black-and-white palette took shape in wide-leg trousers, smokings and sequined blazers. The 74-look collection was a nod to '70s glamour with touches of rock-n-roll. Sparkling embroidery featured on cocktail dresses, shoes and accessories elegantly complemented the collection’s aesthetic.

Watch it yourself: The video below is Part 1 of the Chanel Cruise 2008 show. Bon Voyage.

Mark Your Calendars: Comme des Garçons at H&M (November 13, 2008)

November 4, 2008 – Following in the footsteps of Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Viktor & Rolf, Rei Kawakubo has partnered with H&M to design an exclusive line under the Comme des Garçons label for the retail giant.

Whether designers lend out their names under licensing agreements or co-brand with retailers, the transaction is nothing but profitable. These deals operate on a simple principal: high turnover + (comparatively) lower margins = $. Unlike their ready-to-wear lines that discriminate against those who can’t afford them, these deals make their aesthetics more accessible and democratic to the discerning masses. In fact, Karl Lagerfeld’s line sold out within the day – now that’s turnover.

Fashion Music

November 2, 2008 – Ever wondered what the fashion industry is listening to? I kept a note of some of the standout beats that were played on and off the runway during Montreal and Toronto Fashion Week.

Chromeo – Needy Girl (heard at the Gsus Sindustries show)
Data – Rapture (heard at the Travis Taddeo show) *See Video Below
Kylie Minogue – 2 Hearts (heard at the Envers par Yves Jean Lacasse show)
Hercules and Love Affair – Blind (heard at the Montreal Fashion Week After-Party)
Inner City – Good Life (heard at the Montreal Fashion Week After Party)

Buffalo by David Bitton: Toronto Fashion Week

November 2, 2008 – This season marked David Bitton’s first time presenting at Toronto Fashion Week. True to its aesthetic, Buffalo by David Bitton moved into Spring 2009 with a nod to rock glam for her and collegiate prep - à la Brit Pop style - for him. One look backstage revealed some key items for next season - for her: ultra-slim denim done in a range of pastels, cropped-sleeve blazers paired over black sheered tanks and driving gloves; for him: oxfords done in plaids and madras prints, cardigans and a pair of nerdy eyeglasses to top off the look.

Dennis Gagnon: Toronto Fashion Week

October 29, 2008 – Dennis Gagnon closed both Montreal and Toronto Fashion Week. Now that’s impressive. See for yourself: Below you’ll find the designer’s Spring/Summer 2009 show that took place on Friday October 24, 2008. As for those 7 + inch shoes he custom made, some of the girls in Toronto did find them challenging! Enjoy.



For complete video coverage of Toronto Fashion Week (and better quality vids) visit: LGFashionWeek.ca

Kreesha Turner: Scene At Toronto Fashion Week

October 29, 2008 – The celebrity attendees at fashion shows can generate just as much attention as do the designs. Toronto Fashion Week was no exception. To name a few, seated front row at the Denis Gagnon show was stylist to the stars Phillip Bloch and spotted front row at the Gsus Sindustries show was model coach/judge on Canada’s Next Top Model, Stacey McKenzie.

After wrapping up the week, I was surprised to bump into Kreesha Turner - Canadian singer best known for her single, “Don’t Call Me Baby” – at the restaurant my friend and I were at. She attended a few of the week’s shows including Afshin Feiz and Denis Gagnon. For what it’s worth, she was very approachable and open to conversation.

Thank you Kathleen for taking this picture!

Picture: Kreesha Turner and Sachin Bhola

Alyssa Lambert: Model Moment

Please note that my blog has moved. Check out the upgrade at: http://www.sachinbhola.com/blog - Sachin Bhola

October 28, 2008 - While at a casting, I met Alyssa Lambert – a familiar face I had seen on the Tyra Show (yes, I watch the Tyra Show). That episode covered the A-Z’s of New York Fashion Week and followed three models around as they went on a Pamela Roland casting. Not only did Alyssa book the show, Tyra sat down with her and gave her advice on being a new model.

We know that media makes good use of editing during production to create a story, but I didn’t realize to what extent until I sat down and heard Alyssa Lambert's side of the story.

On T.V.: Alyssa was portrayed as the typical beginner model, new to New York City, holding a map in her hands, walking out of the subway looking lost… You get the picture.
In Reality: Alyssa was familiar with the area, but the show’s production team asked her to reshoot the bit looking confused and disoriented.
On T.V.: Tyra sits down with Alyssa and gives her advice on being a new model.
In Reality: Alyssa was asked by the producers to think of a question to ask Tyra. She was not given this opportunity on screen as Tyra jumped into her own pre-set answer (modeling advice) to a question that was never raised.

Thanks Alyssa!

Alyssa Lambert's hometown is Winnipeg, Manitoba and she is represented by Elite in Toronto and Specs in Montreal.

Picture: Alyssa Lambert and Sachin Bhola

Toronto Fashion Week: October 20-25 2008

October 28, 2008 – 40 runway shows in 6 days, over 600 media onsite and some 20,000 attendees made up Toronto Fashion Week. Produced by the Fashion Design Council of Canada, this marked its 16th season running and 3rd season building tents in the heart of downtown Toronto, Nathan Phillips Square.

As the business hub of Canada, Toronto provides the Canadian fashion industry a better platform to develop their global position – attracting a larger number of buyers (national and international) and media (notably English media) compared to Montreal Fashion Week. In fact, some Montreal-based designers, such as BODYBAG by Jude and Morales, decided only to show in Toronto. However, a significant number of designers, such as Andy Thê-Anh and Aqua Di Lara, opted to present at both fashion weeks. Montreal’s edgier and worldlier market is a more suitable fit for these brands' images.

Business aside, the event was “fabulous” – the official title given to this week-long event. Designers presented their collections for Spring/Summer 2009 in two runway rooms. As I was working backstage, I kept a watchful eye on who/what was on/off the runway.

For more information on Toronto Fashion Week visit LGFashionWeek.ca

Travis Taddeo: Montreal Fashion Week

October 19, 2008 – Newcomer Travis Taddeo stood out from the lineup during Montreal Fashion Week with his younger aesthetic (think American Apparel meets Heatherette). This high energy, “scenester,” club-kid style was a refreshing contrast to the other designers who are targeting a slightly older market (30-40’s). Looking past some of his futuristic and costumy elements, he showed a nice range of clothing (unlike some designers who showed nothing but dresses) and left me with a clear idea of who his customer is and the lifestyles they live. Bravo.

Denis Gagnon: Montreal Fashion Week

October 19, 2008 – Denis Gagnon was the last to present during Montreal Fashion Week and perhaps they really did save the best for last. In the brief time I spent chatting with Montreal Gazette’s fashion editor, Eva Friede, backstage, we both agreed that his was our favorite collection of the week.

Moments after the show, the representative from Giovanni Models appeared backstage in tears, commenting on how beautiful her girls looked (Denis had an agreement with the agency to exclusively book Giovanni girls for his show).

Beautiful they were. As I assisted Denis Gagnon backstage during Montreal Fashion Week, preparing for his show, I quickly learned just how talented this designer was. For Spring/Summer 2009, his color palette began with black, followed by red fused with pink, and for the final lineup, white and gold. He worked with leathers and suedes executing them in intricate rouching – Dennis Gagnon's signature style. In my opinion, he has a very sophisticated and edgy aesthetic that would appeal to a global market, unlike some of the other designers who showed.

Finally, let’s talk about the shoes! Denis custom made these 7 + inch heels giving the girls quite the challenge. Luckily, none of them tumbled over - I’m holding my breath for Toronto Fashion Week, where he’ll be presenting on Friday October 24, 2008.

Montreal Fashion Week: October 13-17 2008

October 18, 2008 - Montreal wrapped up its 15th edition of fashion week held at Marche Bonsecours in Old Montreal.

The shows highlighted a range of talent from recent Project Runway Canada finalists Evan Biddell and Lucian Matis to up-and-comers like Travis Taddeo. Among the more established designers, Simon Chang celebrated 25 successful years in the business and was inaugurated into the Order of Canada – recognizing his contributions to the fashion industry and for his socially responsible business practices.

On a broader level, the week served to advance Montreal’s global position as a major North American city with creative talent and a solid apparel industry. In fact, this event is the third largest in North America. On a personal level, I had the opportunity of both attending some of the shows and working on others backstage. Stay tuned for that!

For more information on Montreal Fashion Week visit MontrealFashionWeek.ca