Whitney Eve Fashion Show

Happy to have been at the show (not so happy with the quality of my camera). One day we'll meet, Whitney Port!

rag & bone Fall 2010 Video

Here's my lame video coverage of rag & bone's Fall 2010 men's collection presented during New York Fashion Week. I know, I know -- I'll have a better camera next time.

rag & bone Interview

"We're both English," says rag & bone duo David Neville and Marcus Wainwright when asked what's the one thing they would like the public to know about them.

Seriously? In their defense, we'll chalk that initial response up to being pressed for time in light of New York Fashion Week, where the guys are presenting their Fall 2010 collection today.

"We take pride in the quality and craftsmanship of our garments," they continue, "so the production process is always under quite a bit of scrutiny."

Hold up. No celebrity name dropping? No mention of awards (which, we'll go ahead and point out: 2007 CFDA Swarovski Award for Menswear)? Nope and nope.

But talk is cheap. Take a look at any given rag & bone product and let it do all the talking. In fact, it is this very humble and disciplined approach to design that has contributed to the success of the company. In a time when new designers are popping up on every hipster street corner and coming (and going) faster than reality TV stars, it's refreshing to learn that the duo has put in the time required to build their brand.

About rag & bone
Sachin Bhola: Can you give us some background on the rag & bone label?
We founded rag & bone in 2002 because we felt there was a gap in the market for well-made, functional garments -- the kind of clothing our friends could wear. But as we had no formal fashion training, we decided to learn from the garment manufacturers themselves, starting with the perfect pair of jeans. We traveled to Kentucky where, at the time, a lot of the American denim factories were based, and [we] met a lot of craftsmen and women who had spent their years cutting, stitching and making jeans. From there we developed our collections, launching menswear in February 2005 and our women’s collection the following season.

Bespoken Fall 2010

Billy Reid Fall 2010

Congratulations to Billy Reid who was awarded Best New Menswear Designer 2010 by GQ. That night he also presented his Fall 2010 collection at Milk Studios during New York Fashion. I caught up with him during the after-party at the Hotel Gansevoort to talk to him about… OK, so the truth is I asked him these questions a few days later – it was really all fun and play that night. He’s a great guy to talk and, well, between his talent and his character, it’s clear why he’s a winner.

Billy Reid Fall 2010
Sachin Bhola: What was the inspiration behind the Fall 2010 collection?
Billy Reid: Classic American clothing, turn of the century field- and work-wear meets East Village folk.

Sachin: What one must-have item will instantly update a man’s wardrobe for Fall 2010?
Billy: A hand-tailored navy blazer. Get one that is made for you, or fits perfectly, not the one you wore in college -- or your dad's. It goes with everything.

Sachin: On the other hand, which item does a man not need another of in his wardrobe?
Billy: Ill-fitting clothing

Billy Reid Interview

"Southern-bred luxury" isn't a term you'd expect to hear in menswear. If this were a physics class, we'd make a case for the South and luxury having diamagnetic properties in relation to fashion's magnetic field. Intense.

And it takes an intense designer to bounce back from September 11, 2001, when William "Billy" Reid was forced to leave New York and return to his native Florence, Alabama. Perhaps this was a blessing in disguise, as the designer reconnected with his homegrown aesthetic and salvaged his momentum.

We wanted to know more. So AskMen.com caught up with Billy Reid at New York Fashion Week: Fall 2010 to check out his presentation at Milk Studios (not exactly a hop, skip and jump from the Mississippi line) and found ourselves partying the night away at the Hotel Gansevoort with Billy, toasting to (what else?) southern-bred luxury.

About Billy Reid
Sachin Bhola: Can you give us some background on the Billy Reid label?
Billy Reid: The collection is all about American clothing. It blends deep Southern roots with a downtown vibe, and I love to build pieces tough enough, and versatile enough, for both those worlds. It started in 2004 when friends approached me with an idea to open retail shops for the collection. The idea was that we would build an environment based on the interior influences and touches of our home here in Florence, Alabama. We would personalize every part of the retail experience. For me, it is about the things I do in life, and the clothes that I want to wear to support it.

Sachin: What’s the one thing you would like the public to know about Billy Reid that they are unaware of?
Billy: I would want them to know how much work and care we put into the collection. The quality and integrity of the effort is something we work so hard to present.

Men's Fashion Today
Sachin: What is the most important garment in a man's wardrobe; the one big-ticket fashion item that is worth its price tag?
Billy: Handmade boots and a handmade jacket or men's suit. You will have them forever if they're made well.

New York Fashion Week Fall 2010: Men's Trend Report

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Written for AskMen.com, click here for the full article (with images)
Written by Sachin Bhola

Remember when men ardently awaited New York Fashion Week -- a time when newsstands experienced the onslaught of guys fighting over the latest copy of a fashion magazine and who had spent the last week forecasting future trends rather than forecasting stock prices? Neither do we.

Men don't relate to fashion with the same zeal as they do the Super Bowl, so attempting to glorify fashion week would be as convincing as Tiger Woods' statement tomorrow morning.

So, why should you care that, say, tweed is a major fabric for Fall 2010? Well, for starters, it's moisture resistant and durable -- something we look for in clothing. Check. A tweed blazer can easily be worn with gray flat-front trousers for the conservative; it can be fused with resin leather sleeves as seen on the jackets at Yigal Azrouel for a cool streetwear look; and it will be available at your local mass retailer next fall. Versatile, accessible and affordable? Check. We think these are pretty good reasons to care.

New York Fashion Week: Fall 2010 wraps up today and, after a week of countless shows, live tweeting, partying, and throw in a snow storm for good measure, AM is here to break down the trends you should look out for later this year.

Michael Kors Fall 2010

“All about ease… Relaxed glamour… The quintessential American sportswear wardrobe… Urban casual vs. country luxe… Tactile texture mixes… The juxtaposition of crisp tailoring and languid softeness…”

“Languid softness?” Are you kidding me?

Let me just say that I hate it when people in fashion make fluffy statements – like “relaxed glamour.” They’re cliché, insubstantial and reinforce the notion of fashion as a social enclave to non-fashion people because we throw around terms like “languid softness.” FYI: It’s nothing but empty jargon.

Another example – why not? On my way out of the Timo Weiland Fall 2010 show during New York Fashion Week, I overheard a fashionista commenting on the presentation: “I really liked the range of the collection; there were a lot of good separates, you know?”

No shit, Sherlock. Of course there would be separates. I could take the economic position by arguing that in today’s highly volatile market, not producing a range of clothing that would appeal to a wide demographic means retail suicide – especially if you are operating on high margins. However, the common sense in me (you know, the one that urks when I hear “languid softness”) says: “Of course they’re separates. What else would they be? Pants that are restricted to one specific top? Shoes that are incapable of being worn with, say, a different pair of jeans?

But I digress.

The opening of this blog entry was taken from Michael Kors’ Fall 2010 print-out. One of the strongest looks during the show was a knitted crossfox fling, smoke tissue cashmere pullover and camel suede trouser (pictured above). Did I mention this was worn by Frankie Rayder? Bonus. It was nice to see Michael cast some of the girls I grew up on – Frankie and Angela to be specific.

The outerwear for men was another highlight. Simon Nessman opened the Michael Kors Fall 2010 show in a camel crushed garbadine anorak (pictured below). Terron Wood (my new obsession) wore a tobacco distressed leather flight jacket and Max wore a leather cargo jacket.

When it was time to process all of this with my fashion editor hat on I struggled to unify the aesthetic. It was New York… It was urban yet country… It was luxe sportswear…. It was relaxed glamour… Uh oh.

Michael Kors Fall 2010 Video

I captured the very end of the Michael Kors Fall 2010 finale on video. Last season, I remember the woman sitting beside me saying: “The longer the runway, the bigger the designer’s ego.” I thought that was funny.

New York Fashion Week Fall 2010

Flying into New York in the middle of a snow storm -- kind of intense. Ours was the only flight that was not canceled. Of course, being from Montreal, I figured a "snow storm" in New York would be a joke. Wrong. I didn't bring any appropriate winter shoes, slipped and fell on my ass and am (still) freezing... but the best part about this was that I was able to sound off on winter fashion for NY Mag -- check it out (I'm at the end):

Fashion Week Vs. The Blizzard - NYMag.com




Stay tuned for coverage on New York Fashion Week Fall 2010.

Michael Kors Spring 2010

What would the last entry be without video? Here's the Michael Kors Spring 2010 show (the opening and finale). First track: "Love Games," second track: "Poker Face," finale track: "The Fame." I've always wanted to see Natasha Poly's super-sexy strut - needless to say that watching (and video taping) this with her in a swimsuit made me a pretty happy camper. Too fierce. And what's up with Noah Mills ducking his head so much?

Michael Kors 2010

"Love Games" by Lady Gaga opened the Michael Kors Spring 2010 show at New York Fashion Week. This was followed by "Poker Face," and that's when I realized he wasn't going to play anything but. It was kind of surprising because one tends to look to runway music as a venue to discover the newest, hipster music (or the newest, hipster remix). I know DJs who specialize in runway music -- who live for this stuff -- that would be heartbroken by hearing a Lady Gaga track at a fashion show.

Thus, Lady Gaga was a tad commercial for me. And not the most timely. Lady Gaga in September 2009? Talk about old news. It also had nothing to do with the collection (well, you can judge for yourself here). It was only when I read the directives backstage that I made the connection.

Simon Spurr Launches New Line For Fall 2010

Simon Spurr's office manager sent me an e-mail this week. The opening line?
"We here at Simon Spurr have been following your blog for some time and have noticed how prolific and compelling your posts on Men's Fashion have been. " Nice. I couldn't help but wonder how they even came across it (I'd like to think that my SEO efforts are paying off -- thank you AskMen.com).

However, I ensure you the e-mail had no intention of gushing over my blog; instead, it was to invite me to an exclusive review of Spurr's new line, Simon Spurr. Though I haven't seen the line yet (stay tuned for potential lookbook pics before the show on February 14 at New York Fashion Week), you can expect Simon to, well, stick to what he does best.

"The new Simon Spurr label will consist of a full collection of menswear with a higher level of make including hand finished leather, suiting, shirting and sweaters," claims the press release, "'Whilst Simon Spurr will be the collection line, it is important to me that Spurr is not considered as a diffusion or secondary line'."

First of all, points for using the word "whilst." Next, I'm curious to see how the launch of this line will unfold. Multiple lines for one designer -- especially when that designer is fairly new and when their market is menswear -- is generally hit or miss.

Will keep you posted.

Rad Hourani Spring 2010 Show

Hourani presented his Spring 2010 show at Milk Studios during New York Fashion Week. Devon Aoki made a front row appearance, which was surprizing because, well, what has Aoki done lately? Check out the finale of the Rad Hourani Spring 2010 show (again, sorry about my camera):

Alexander Wang After-Party

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Alexander Wang is the it boy in fashion. In a few short seasons, he's established a cult-like following among models, celebrities and fashionistas alike. What I like about him is that, in addition to his too-cool-for-school aesthetic, he's a smart business man. Everything he does is an extension of his brand, only reinforcing his market position as the cool kid in the industry.

Take the Alexander Wang After-Party as an example. During New York Fashion Week, Wang held his party in the Meatpacking District. The location? The Mobil gas station. Leave it to him to transform a gas station into the best party during Fashion Week.

Courtney Love performed to an intimate audience consisting of models (Frankie Rayder, Lily Donaldson, Erin Wasson, Liya Kebede, Isabeli Fontana, Jessica Stam, Philip Huang, Kelly Kopen, and more), celebrities (Jared Leto, Olivia Palermo) editors, buyers, and industry buffs.

One of the highlights for me was the convenience store at the Mobil gas station. It was fully stocked with chocolate bars, chips, soda -- you name it. And it was a free-for-all. You could take whatever you wanted. Thanks Alex!

Yigal Azrouel Spring 2010

Here's a clip of the finale at the Yigal Azrouel Spring 2010 show presented at New York Fashion Week. It was the first time the men's and women's collections were presented together. Eat up the track by Phoenix: "Lisztomania." Sorry about the quality of the video; my digital camera isn't anything high-tech.

I'm really feelin' the boyfriend blazer on Tao Okamoto at the end. What do you think?

Yigal Azrouel Interview

Here's an interview I did with Yigal Azrouel discussing his Fall/Winter 2009 collection:

Belted coats that cinch your waist, shrunken schoolboy suits, knee-high laced-up boots, and pants that fit more like a ballet legging than, well, pants -- after combing through the Fall ’09 shows, sometimes it seems like designers don’t have the slightest sartorial clue about what men will (actually) wear.

So, when a guy like Yigal Azrouel comes along whose pieces are as easy to understand as they are wearable, we like him. And when his answer to a commonly asked question about what his inspiration was is: “There isn’t a specific inspiration… It doesn’t have to be that serious; it’s a cool collection for a cool guy,” we like him even more.

DKNY Interview

Here's an interview I recently did with DKNY Men design director, Ken MacMillan, discussing its Spring/Summer 2010 collection:

Attempting to define the New York man is somewhat of an enigma. Sure, images of an austere-faced Trump raising his mighty finger at an MBA grad or of a starving artist setting up his gallery on the corner of Lafayette Street and Hipster Excess are good starts, but they are equally elusive.

The New York man is in motion. His only constant is change -- much like the city itself. So, who better to turn to than Ken MacMillan, DKNY Men design director, for his point of view. “New York fuels everything DKNY is. It’s as forward as it is forever. There’s no one way to look or one style to wear.”

AskMen.com sat down with MacMillan to discuss its new collection presented around New York Fashion Week, common male fashion mistakes and the seven essentials you need in your wardrobe. We may never be able to define the New York man, but thanks to DKNY, we can capture it for a season.

Simon Spurr Spring 2010

Here are some pictures I took from the Simon Spurr 2010 collection during New York Fashion Week.

Simon Spurr 2010

Earlier this year, Simon Spurr was named one the 10 finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Big deal? Well, if walking away with $200,000 and a mentoriship with industry buffs (say, Ana Wintour) isn't a big deal, I don't know what is.

With all of the buzz surrounding the Simon Spurr 2010 collection, I was looking forward to attending his show during New York Fashion Week.

Fast-forward a few (busy!) months later -- sorry for the late blog entries, guys -- and Spurr isn't the lucky recipient of the award. However, I now understand why he's on everyone's radar.